Camera remote release pinout listCanon
Most DSLR and SLR cameras can be triggered remotely using a release cable. Unfortunately the connectors used for the external release have rather exotic shapes. Below you will find the pinouts for the common camera types. The standard solution consists of three wires: ground, focus and shutter. To focus the camera the focus wire has to be connected to ground. To release the camera both wires have to be connected to ground.
All Canon EOS cameras are equipped with a remote release connector. There are two types of plugs. Refer to this article for more details on the electrical data of the external trigger ports. Most types can be released by pulling down just the shutter wire.
2.5mm Jack Connector
This connector is used with:
EOS 350D, 400D, 450D, 500D, 550D, 600D, 650D, 700D, 750D, 760D,
EOS 60D, 70D, 80D,
EOS 1000D, 1100D, 1200D, 1300D.
The 60D is the first two digit camera using a jack plug. It's is a DIY friendly stereo (3 pole) 2.5 mm jack plug. It is not the standard plug used in mp3-players etc. which has a diameter of 3.5 mm! But don't worry, you can buy this smaller plug in a bigger electronics store. The 'official' remote controller with this plug sold by Canon is called RS-60 E3.
This connector is used with the EOS 10D, 20D, 30D, 40D, 50D, 5D, 5Dmk2, 5Dmk3, 5Dmk4, 5DS, 6D, 7D, 7Dmk2 and all types of the 1D. The only way to get the connector is canibalising a cheap remote control. The 'official' remote controller with this plug sold by Canon is called RS-60 N3.
Fuji has currently three types of wired shutter release connectors.
2.5mm Jack Plug
Some of the Fujis have the standard 2.5mm jack socket to connect the microphone.
This socket also serves as a shutter release socket. The wiring is compatible
with Canon and Pentax (see above) and cheap remotes designed for these brands
can be used.
This DIY friendly connection exists in the models:
X-T1, X-T10, X-T20, X-E1, X-E2.
Cameras specified to work with the Fuijfilm RR-80 remote control can be
controlled using a miniUSB plug and some additional circuitry. The male miniUSB
plug is offered by bigger electronic component vendors.
The images below show the wiring of an adapter cable to the standard jack plug as needed by the SmaTrig for example. the cable.
This cable works with the models:
FUJIFILM X-S1, X-E1,
FinePix HS30EXR, HS33EXR, HS25EXR, HS28EXR, HS20EXR, HS22EXR,
S205EXR, S200EXR, S100FS.
The RR-80A has a proprietary plug that will be hard to find.
The only advantage compared to the RR-80 is the additional compatibility to
Adapters from the RR-80 to the RR-80A plug exist and are probably the only way
for DIYers to control for the HS50EXR.
FUJIFILM X-S1, X-E1,
FinePix HS50EXR, HS30EXR, HS33EXR, HS25EXR, HS28EXR, HS20EXR, HS22EXR,
S205EXR, S200EXR, S100FS.
This is the successor of the RR-80 with the smaller microUSB plug. This plug is
commonly used for charging smartphones. You can use a miniUSB-female to
microUSB-male adapter to connect the older RR-80. Most probably the circuitry
shown above will also work with a microUSB plug instead of the miniUSB.
FUJIFILM X-T1, X-T10, X-E2, X-M1, X-A2, X-A1, X100T, X30, XQ2, XQ1, FinePix S1
Hasselblad uses the same 2.5mm stereo jack connector as Pentax and the smaller Canons. It fits the H, H1 H1D, H2, H2D, H3D.
With three different types, Nikon is the unbeaten leader in inventing remote release connectors.
This type fits the D70s (not D70!) and D80.
This type fits the D90, D3100, D3200, D3300, D5000, D5100, D5200, D5300, D5500, D7000, D7100, D7200, D600, D610, D750 and DF. It was introduced to connect the GPS-receiver. The D90 was the first cam to appear with this new connector.
10-pin connector (MC-20, MC-22, MC-30, MC-36)
This is the connector found in the bigger Nikon cameras like D200, D300, D500, D700, D800, D800E, D810, D3, D3x, D4, D5, etc. Several analog cameras like the F100 use this connector too. It is also used by the Fuij S3 and S5 Pro. Nikon offers a cable called MC-22. It's an adapter cable for the round 10 pin plug ending with three banana connectors for own circuitry.
Unfortunately the models D40 (2006), D50 (2005), D60 (2008), D70 (without s) and D3000 don't have a cable release connector. IR or USB-tethering are the only control options here.
This is the plug found on the Olympus RM-UC1 remote release.
According to the Olympus web site it fits the models:
E-P1, E-P2, E-P3, E-P5, E-PM1, E-PL2, E-PL3,
E-30, the E-400 series, E-510, E-520, E620,
OM-D E-M1, E-M5, EM10, etc.
It's also compatible with the compact cameras:
XZ-1, SZ-20, SZ-30 MR, SP-565, SP-570 and SP-590.
RM-CB2 2.5mm jack connector
With the OM-D E-M1 Mark 2 Olympus is switching to the simple 2.5 mm jack connector also used by Canon or Pentax (Thanks for the info Eric!). The corresponding remote control is called RM-CB2.
The plug shown above can be found on the older Olympus RM-CB1 remote release. Compatible camera models are E-1, E-3, E-300 (via battery holder), E-10 and E-20.
Panasonic/Lumix goes an unusual way and uses just one wire to control the focus
and the shutter. As shown in the picture above, only the shaft and the first
ring are used. Resistors are used to choose the function.
This connector can be found in the DMW-RS1 and DMW-RSL1 remote control from Panasonic and is compatible with the following camera models:
G1, G2, G3, G5, G6, G7, G10,
GH1, GH2, GH3, GH4,
FZ25, FZ30, FZ50, FZ100, FZ150, FZ200, FZ1000, etc.
My experiments showed that the more common resistor values of 33k, 3k3 and 2k2 also work. A possible wiring of the cable is shown here. Note that the grounds of the plugs are not directly connected.
If you are building the cable yourself, I recommend to recycle the 2.5mm side from a ready made cable to avoid buying and soldering the 2.5mm 4 pole plug.
Some of the Lumix cameras (e.g. G3, G6, FZ1000) have the remote plug on the right side. This is not typical and a longer cable will be needed.
Pentax are the good guys and use the common 2.5-mm stereo jack plug. The pinout is the same as for Canon cameras (see above). These models can be connected using the jack plug: 645Z, 645D, K-5, K-5II, K-7, K-50, K-500, K-30, K20D, K-m, K10D, K100D and K110D. Unfortunately the K-r and the K-x have no remote control socket. These models can be released per IR only. Pentax standard wired remote shutter release is called CS-205.
Sigma (SD-14, SD-15)
The plug is the same like Canon, but the shutter and focus pinout is swapped. Thanks to sigma_fan for providing the info!
Sony has currently two types of connectors.
Old Minolta Connector
In the bigger models Sony uses the old Minolta connector shown below. The A77ii proved also to work with this cable.
The newer and more compact camera models use a connector similar to a micro-USB
port but equipped with an additional row of contacts for extended functionality.
In the image below you can see the front row and the standard USB contacts with
a larger pitch in the background. The plug is about 3 mm longer than the
standard micro-USB. Sony uses the same trick for their Multi interface shoe
to make their own equipment and older flashes compatible.
This plug can be found in the Sony RM-VPR1 remote. It fits the models:
RX10, RX100ii, RX100iii, RX100iv,
SLT-A65, SLT58, etc
In the plug I analysed the ground was on the metal housing. Other sources specify the second pin as ground. The other pins have other functions like zooming, but need a special protocol.
Several Sony models do not have a remote connector and can be controlled only with a wireless remote.
No guarantee for nothing. Please be careful when experimenting with your camera.
I have a Sony A7 iii and I have just ordered a remote control from China. I see this RC uses the USB-C connector. How is this wired, do I need to apply some voltage to make the camera take pictures? I was thinking of building mine own control using an Arduino.
for nex c3 can you identify the id resistor in mini usb ????
pls if u know tell me and send email thanks
I noticed your wonderful SmaTrig2 on the net and wondered if you could address a related question.
The Sony UMC-S3CA is a network camera in which the menu can only be controlled via the wired multi-terminal. The camera has no IR remote receiver or wi-fi capability. Therefore, the IR signal of a Sony Wireless Remote Commander (https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/916138-REG/sony_rmtdslr2_wireless_remote_commander.html?ap=y&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI36zBi5a23AIVD4N-Ch2uyAr3EAQYBCABEgJl7fD_BwE&smp=y) won’t control the functions or the menu of the SC3A.
Do you think it may be possible to purchase or build a device that converts the IR signals of the Remote Commander to electrical signals for wired remote operation through the multi-terminal?
I greatly appreciate any help you can provide.
I\\\'m trying to diy a remote shutter cable for a GH4 equipped motion controlled time lapse rail but I am struggling to find a pin out to achieve the claims of the item in the link below..
It would seem that more is going on than the three resistor setup you describe above, however, despite there being a few remotes offering the extended functionality, I can\\\'t find any other wieing diagrams or pinouts.
Seeing as your site is so good.. i thought id reach out in the hope that youd be interested in improving your page.
I wonder if there is any detailed list of compact cameras that support external shutter control. I am thinking about Sony, Lumix and Canon below 400 Euro.
First I want to say thank you for posting this great document. I have read all of it and I like to know that using the different Cabled for different cameras do I need to connect the Shutter wire with the focus wire and then when it is shorted it will focus and then release the shutter and take the picture.
I understand that some may need battery or resistor so I am not talking about those cameras.
I am new with cameras so please forgive me if I ask some questions that might be simple to you or others.
My purpose of doing this is to make a automated picture taking wireless but I need to make the cables first, yes I understand there are many wireless in the market but I am using Arduino which will send signal at certain time and events for the camera to take the picture and I need the make the cables for my receiver to connect to the camera. I tried to just have the shutter cable connected to ground but nothing happens however when I connected the shutter and the focus wires together and then grounded them the picture was taken so my question is DO I HAVE TO CONNECT THE FOCUS AND SHUTTER TOGETHER OR NO NEED. IF NO NEED, THEN IS THERE A SPECIAL SETTING THAT I HAVE TO DO IN THE CAMERA SO BY JUST SHORTING THE SHUTTER WIRE TO GROUND WILL TAKE THE PICTURE.
I do want to thank you ahead of time for taking the time to read my email.
I look forward to your reply.
I was pointed to an interesting article about the correct pin-out of this remote connector:
Apparently one needs to pull the floating Ring1 (next to sleeve which is GND) to 1.5V for START and to GND for STOP. This voltage can be \'grabbed\' from the tip T (3.3V) and reduced by a simple 100k resistor. The Ring2 (next to tip T) is apparently not used at all?
I have not yet tried this solution, but the original author claims success with his LS10 recorder.
Hopefully this info will help others as well, because OLYMPUS is not revealing any information about the commonly used remote port, and does NOT offer a simple wire solution as they really should.
The RS30W connects to the controlled device with a simple 2.5mm 4 prong plug.
Only START/STOP is controlled this way, and very unreliable (infrared, distance issues etc). With a hefty price tag on top, needs batteries etc, a pure nightmare.
There MUST be a way to build a simple pushbutton cable remote for this purpose, allowing for a reliable and cheap way to Start/Stop the device by cable.
I do not want to ruin my LS20-M by trial-and-error, as one prong most likely carries voltage for the IR receiver; it may(not) be used for the start/stop signal.
Olympus blocks all inquiries, FixYa does not solve it either, can you?
with 6k resintance, the opto-coupler is not triggered strong enough and the camera is not responding. Adjust the resistor btw the uC and the opto-coupler for a current of about 20-50 mA. This is the current the IR-LED needs to trigger the output properly. Post a link to the schematic for easier debugging.
that's interesting. Please take a look at page 85 of this document
They explicitly specify 2.5mm for the remote socket, but 3.5mm for the mic. Are you possibly trying to connect the remote with the mic socket? Do you have this 2.5mm socket in your cam?
we have a cable that offers USB and direct trigger option for Sony multiport at mobilexcopter.com
You can use use it as presumed - for camera control via USB and/or direct triggering via 3.5 mm connector.
the pic at http://www.yingzyi.com/sonymulit.jpg
Two days ago I built the remote trigger for my camera and spent 1/10th the cost of an original one.
I see alot of people looking for a tethered solution to trigger a Sony MultiPort / Multi terminal equipped camera..
We just released a solution two weeks ago, since we also were in need with our drone R&D project with a Sony MultiPort camera..
If the above has any interest - please come by our shop at www.skysight.eu and have a look.. :)
Best regards from Denmark,
The SkySight Team
that idea is out.
thanks for confirming the D7100 pinout. I do not provide the color codes since I usually reverse-engineer no-name remotes. Here the colors differ from manufaturer to manufacturer.
Also, the older MC-DC1 uses a different colour code to the MC-DC2. On the MC-DC1 Nikon uses Black for ground, green for focus [red on MC-DC2] and white for shutter release. Just to confuse matters, the same FOUR core cable is used in BOTH, [red or green cut off as appropriate].
Hope this helps - Mike
Another handy feature built into the camera is WiFi. Download the free Panasonic Image App and you have the ability to control many features remotely including start/stop video, change color profiles, set white balance, ISO, framerates, and resolution.
Does anyone have an idea how the protocol or the connection diagram works for Panasonic 2,5mm Jack to control the zoom??
It is possible, as proved here:
I want to control this features over an RC Remote, i can release the shutter with this cable:
But there is no possibility to control the zoom. I am really freakting out because i cannot find any solutions or diagrams.
Maybe somebody has an idea???
Thanks very much
Does anyone know if there are alternative remote control cables for a Brinno TLC? Picture here:
Looks like a Panasonic or iPhone jack plug, but I'm not sure. The Brinno cable is extremely expensive...
It turns out, that at least on the Sony A57,that it is only needed to connect shutter to ground, without the need of connecting focus, just as long the lens is set to MF.
Since 2012 all new Sony cameras feature a USB 2.0 HighSpeed micro B connector rather than a USB mini B or a proprietary USB connector.
On most of these new cameras, however, the USB micro B connector is not labelled \\\\\\\"USB\\\\\\\" but \\\\\\\"Multi\\\\\\\" in order to indicate that it is a special Multi Terminal connector.
This Multi Terminal connector is compatible with a standard USB micro B connector but features 10 hidden contacts carrying additional signals for:
- composite video out
- stereo audio out
- remote release
Fortunately, the old 3-pin remote release interface is available here as well. While the proprietary Multi Terminal connector is not readily available, it is possible to \\\\\\\"hack\\\\\\\" a passive remote release adapter cable utilizing a (relatively cheap: 20-25 EUR) Sony VCM-AVM1 adapter cable.
Old 3-pin remote release:
R1 (\\\\\\\"C\\\\\\\") = ground / shield -> outer ring
R2 (\\\\\\\"F\\\\\\\") = activate camera / focussing -> middle ring
R3 (\\\\\\\"S\\\\\\\") = release shutter -> center pin
New Sony Multi Terminal:
M1 VBUS (+5V in, max. 2A)
M6 +3.1V (for LANC_DC etc.)
M10 SELECT (resistor against M6 or M14)
M11 Audio R out / activate camera / focussing
M12 Audio L out / release shutter
M13 Composite video out
Not all functions may be provided by all camera models.
3-pin to Multi Terminal adapter cable based on a hacked VCM-AVM1:
M11 -- middle ring (\\\\\\\"F\\\\\\\") -- R2
M12 -- center pin (\\\\\\\"S\\\\\\\") -- R3
M14 -- outer ring (\\\\\\\"GND\\\\\\\") -- R1
More details can be found in this forum thread at Minolta-Forum:
Hope it helps,
The timers /auto shutter remotes those are easily available in markets are only connecting these (ground+shutter) wires after a set of intervals.
My Question is...
..i have a DC motor, that is attached with some mechanism (i made) with RAIL + MY DSLR CAMERA.. if i power that motor, this camera drags on the RAIL... is it possible if i connect the same timer as parallel connection to the camera for timelaps and the motor to drag a bit after every interval... will it be safe for camera.. because.. to switch on the motor i use power and in camera only two connector is being connected..
I hope you understand my question.
I think fail power pin conection. Is the input wire conection a 3V or 5V?